What do mustard and chiles have
in common?
Heat: Without actually being
hot, they create the physical sensation of heat.
Health: They are both rich in health-giving
nutrients.
Holiday: Both make exciting holiday eating
and homemade gifts.
What is mustard?
The brassica family contains cabbage, kale,
Brussels sprouts, arugula, turnips and mustard.
Here we are talking about mustard seeds.
They come in yellow (milder), brown
(medium) or black (more potent). You’ve
probably had “prepared mustard” like
French’s or Dijon made with ground
mustard seed or maybe you’ve tried German
mustard with the seeds still visible.
Mustard seeds are impotent until
they are crushed and mixed with water.
That starts an enzymatic cascade resulting
in the creation of mustard oil, allyl
isothiocyanate (aka AITC), the chemical
responsible for that breathtakingly pungent
punch. AITC protects the plant from
predators (like us), but it is also harmful to
the plant itself, so it is stored away in a clever
mechanism that it is activated only when
chewed.
Mustard, specifically AITC, has a long list
of health benefits that protect the body from
disease and damage by helping prevent cancer,
lowering cholesterol, balancing insulin levels
and reducing inflammation. It’s a decongestant,
antibacterial, antifungal, reduces pain
and strengthens bones. So enjoy the burn!
The heat in chiles
The chemical that gives chile peppers
their heat, capsaicin, is different. Humans
seem to love the burn, so we have cultivated
and spread chiles worldwide.
Why do we love them so? Capsaicin
tricks the body into thinking it is on fire. It
interacts with a protein on the tongue that
usually senses heat. Your brain responds by
sending out pain-killing endorphins and pleasure-
giving dopamine. Together they trigger a
nice high sense of well-being.
According to a 2017 study from the University
of Vermont and a 2015 study published
in the British Medical Journal, regular
chile eaters have less cancer, diabetes, obesity
and cardiovascular inflammation, and live
longer lives.
Chiltepin, the mother of all peppers, is
the original pepper that has been selected and
hybridized for centuries to give us hundreds
of modern varieties. It can be found growing
near Tumacacori, Arizona. Chiltepins are ferociously
hot to us and other mammals who
would chew up their
seeds. But it’s not hot at
all to birds who swallow
the seeds whole, then
disperse them with a nice
poop of fertilizer.
Red peppers, sweet
or hot, are the ripe version
of green. The ripening
increases sweetness
and aroma, making them
seem more like fruit and
less like a vegetable. Red
peppers are in season now. I am an enthusiastic
red-pepper lover and this pepper jam is a
great way to preserve them. Make it hot or
sweet to your taste, but be sure to use fresh
(not dried) sweet red peppers and hot red
chiles.
How do you tell how hot peppers are?
Remove the stem and take a little nibble.
Heat is concentrated in the seeds and in the
white membrane.
Mustard and chiles are daily reminders
that life is exhilarating. Online I have two incarnations
— Smoky Honey Mustard and
Red Chile Jam — that deliver. They’re simple
and inexpensive to make, and will knock the
socks off your family and friends. Pack them
up for stellar gifts to be enjoyed, savored and
rejoiced over.
This mustard is full of harmonic dissonance, a mixture of love and alarm. Give me more! It’s strong and smoky, sweet and pungent, and particularly enchanting with smoked meats or cheeses. I love it on a BLT.
This is a fermented recipe, giving the added boost of lactobacillus, the same probiotic found in yogurt. Start it three days in advance so these beneficial bacteria have a head start. Use cold water. Cold water makes mustard hotter and hot water halts the enzymatic reaction that creates AITC and flavor potency. Makes 2 cups.
¼ cup whole brown mustard seeds*
¼ cup whole yellow mustard seeds*
½ cup cold water
¼ cup plain, unsweetened yogurt (dairy- or plant-based) or live kombucha
2 tablespoons ground mustard*
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon garlic powder
2 tablespoons liquid smoke
¼ cup cider vinegar
¼ cup honey
Grind the mustard seeds coarsely in a spice grinder or blender. Pour them into a one-pint glass jar. Add the cold water and the yogurt or kombucha. Mix. Seal jar tightly and set aside at room temperature for three days. Stir in the mustard powder, salt, garlic powder, liquid smoke, cider vinegar and honey. Refrigerate. Mixture will thicken as it sits. This mixture has a tendency to separate, so shake before using.
* Natural Grocers carries ground mustard and mustard seed.
** Because of its antibacterial and antifungal properties, mustard is food safe at room temperature, but room temperature will destroy the pungency. Refrigerate for maximum quality.
This four-ingredient jam recipe produces a sparkling red, fresh-flavored condiment that emphasizes the natural sweetness of the peppers. I love it with cheese and crackers, and it’s stunning over cheesecake. Make a lot, bottle it up and enjoy treating your friends to this winter treat. Makes 2 cups.
For this recipe I chop the sweet peppers, then mix in hot chiles to taste. While the jam simmers I taste again and add chiles until the balance is perfect.
1¼ pounds red peppers, a combination of sweet and hot chiles, to taste
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup water or as needed
Remove the stems and seeds from the sweet peppers. Cut into large pieces. Remove the stems from the hot peppers. Leave the seeds in for a hotter version, or remove them for a milder version. (Be careful, or wear gloves. Capsaicin oils from hot chilies can burn your skin.) Chop the sweet peppers and hot peppers separately in a food processor (or by hand) until they are finely chopped, but not ground. Keep them separate.
Place all ingredients in a saucepan. Hold out some of the hot chilies. Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Taste and adjust heat by adding more hot chilies. Continue to simmer for another 10 minutes, adding more water if needed to keep the mixture from drying out. Set aside for 4–8 hours. Using a strainer, drain all liquid into a bowl. Set solids aside.
Return liquid to the pan and bring it to a boil. Cook until it thickens into a syrup. Stand by, and watch very closely — this burns easily. Add the pepper solids, bring to a rolling boil and turn off immediately.
Hot-pack into sterilized glass jars with new lids. The lids should seal as the jam cools. If sealed, the jam can be stored at room temperature. Alternatively, freeze or refrigerate.
Chef Molly Beverly is Prescott's leading creative food activist and teacher. Photos by Gary Beverly.